Over knee l to r: Prada, Esteban Cortazar, Isabel Marant, Nina ricci, Dior, Saint Laurent AW17

AW17 trend: Big boots bounce back

Has the ankle boot had its day? No, of course not. But designers don’t seem to be as fond of its as they once were and the recent catwalks were a powerful example of that. It was as if they’d all got together to wage some kind of anti-ankle boot campaign. As if C.R.A.B. (the…

Chloe, Isabel Marant, Stella McCartney AW17

AW17: This girl can (and this one, and that one too)…

So the AW17 shows are over. And the verdict? Hmmm. OK, I suppose, but not exactly a vintage season. Maybe designers were too busy protesting about Brexit/Trump/racism/sexism (all worthy causes). Or maybe they were too busy trying to out-Demna Demna Gvasalia with painfully unwearable shoulders and try-finding-a-coat-that’ll-go-with-that asymmetry. But there were some good collections full…

Dries van Noten AW17

Dries Van Noten AW17: Look and learn

OK. The original plan was to write a review of the Saint Laurent collection because I’ve spent most of this week quite liking it. But as each day goes by I like it less. Yeah, there are some great shearling pieces and some knock ‘em dead daywear. But those mini dresses with just one scarily…

Prada AW 17

AW17 Prada: Top of the class or bottom of the heap?

Prada has been going through some tough times lately. Just as upstarts like Alessandro Michele Demna Gvasalia shake things up and get lots of attention (deservedly so in Michele’s case), Prada has seemed a little less relevant, a little less directional. Fashion insiders still love it but bloggers are less obsessed and its resale appeal…

Gucci AW17

Gucci AW17: Gawky, geeky and frequently gorgeous

It was more of the same on the Gucci runway Wednesday. The same… but different too. The same insofar as it’s clear that Alessandro Michele’s love of geeky/granny/decorative chic wasn’t just a few-seasons-only flirtation, but a deep, lasting commitment. It’s a marriage, not a casual relationship. The differences came with a series of new-season motifs…

Delpozo AW17

NYFW AW17 Delpozo: Falling in love again

I do like Delpozo. No, make that I LOVE Delpozo. There’s something about the clever colour combinations, the architectural silhouettes, even the quirky knitwear that impresses me way more than some of-the-moment designers who win praise just for sending models onto the runway in some of the most spectacularly ugly clothes around.