We’ve heard a lot lately about the wrong kind of weather for the fashion industry. Mild autumns and winters have meant knits and coats stayed firmly on store shelves until clearance sale time.
But designers must think AW16 is going to be a chilly few months because knits and coats are just what they’ve been sending out in droves this NYFW.
And Rag & Bone have given us some of the best. This was a collection devoid of the eveningwear NYFW designers love and full of practical options for wintry New York-stye weather, plus some other options for weather-neutral days. So here are my three key takeaways from the show.
1. Outerwear rules the runway
It’s been a big coat and cold-weather-jacket NYFW season and that’s BIG in the most literal sense of the word. Oversized parkas, loose shearling jackets that are so cosy they can substitute for coats and quilted pieces that are warm without the weight of shearling have all figured prominently at NYFW. Rag & Bone’s are almost my favourites so far (though Altuzarra is still out in front).
2. Casual knits are cosy and cocooning
Relaxed knits with a don’t-care-air continue the strong knit trend that has run for several (autumn) seasons. Oversized sweaters are stretched out into sweater dresses that could look youthful and sexy when worn with just heels but here were more laid back. Piecing together what looked like two sweaters into one felt directional, but there were more easy-to-digest pieces too for those who like their fashion less challenging.
3. Casual-but-not-luxe is cool
There’s been a big focus on sports- or casual-luxe in recent seasons but Rag & Bone’s interpretation of the look felt, well, casual-not-luxe. Loose slogan sweats, multicolour tunics-cum-sport tops, sidestripe jersey track jackets and pants, patchwork sateen and leather pants, and some great zip-front sporty ankle boots may come at luxury prices but the aim isn’t to show off about the price of what you’re wearing. Rag & Bone’s customers next season are meant to be too-cool-to-care.