Since the 1960s, mini skirts have either been ‘in’ or ‘out’. Whether that meant Alaïa-style 80s bandage minis or 60s homage A-lines, there was a definite line drawn as to whether it was on-trend enough to deserve a place in your wardrobe. But 50-plus years after its invention, the mini is a classic, which means…
Alessandro Michele has moved the Gucci ad campaign roadshow from last season’s Berlin to Tokyo for AW16 with a continuation of the ultra-luxe-fashion-against-an-everyday-backdrop trend that’s still serving the brand well. But then Michele is all about continuity and evolution. Having shaken up the brand profile in order to break with the Frida Giannini era in…
It’s over. Fashion Month has finally drawn to a close and we can all pause for breath, although the fashion industry isn’t pausing as it furiously pores over every key look, key item and key colour to see how it can pep up its open-to-buy offer for AW16.
At first glance I wasn’t overwhelmed by the latest Louis Vuitton collection from Nicolas Ghesquière. Yes, it tapped into a number of the season’s key trends. And yes, it also had that unique edge that’s a feature of many of the leading Paris labels.
There’s been a lot of talk about ‘disruption’ (everyone’s favourite buzzword) this Fashion Month. We’ve heard about disruption of the seasonal calendar via insta-fashion initiatives. We’ve heard about how fashion’s newer wave has been disrupting the ready-to-wear system by doing couture (with a large dose of irony, of course). And we’ve heard about how some…
Stella McCartney AW16 Stella McCartney’s one of those labels I rarely get that excited about. But it’s also one of those labels that’s really good at tapping into the mood of the moment and giving us clothes we can actually wear (rather than unwearable clothes to inspire). This time round it was a mixed bag.…
The big question around Saint Laurent is whether Hedi Slimane will stay on or whether the good ol’ contract terms issue will become a sticking point that means Kering waves goodbye to the designer that has helped propel the label’s sales ever higher. We haven’t had an answer to that yet but we have had an…
Isabel Marant has an uncanny knack of summing up the look of any season. She may not always offer up the key items everyone is raving over but when those so-called key items are on the clearance rack come the end of the season you realise that the pieces she gave us sold-through as well as…
Faith Connexion is turning into one of my favourite labels. Under Christophe Decarnin it’s become one of the most directional – but also wearable – denim-meets-urban-luxe lines around. If you don’t know Decarnin, he’s the designer who transformed Balmain from staid to sexy before Olivier Rousteing got to it. I’ve got nothing against Rousteing, but…
The great thing about writing a blog rather than writing for a publication backed by a corporation is… you can say what you like and don’t have to cover what you hate. That means any collection that smacks of ‘The Emperor’s New Clothes’ is out. So there are no pictures of Vetements on Trendwalk for…
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