It was a big afternoon for knitwear on the London runways on Monday as Joseph, Pringle and Christopher Kane gave use some of the coolest solutions for chilly weather we’ve seen this season.
At Joseph we were offered total knit dressing with curvy sweater and skirt combos in chunky grey wool or finer gauge yarns, the innate conservatism of the look disrupted by the random placement embroideries (a naive leaf or even a fork), corset detail and trailing yarns at the hems.
More colourful (and inspirational for the high street) were slouchy, oversized sweaters with a design that resembled nothing more than children’s building blocks with letters on them, or a multicolour striped sweater under a leather corset-meets-pinafore dress.
As we also saw in New York (most notably at Altuzarra), roughly-stitched contrast colour edges were key, as were oversized proportions. Giant knits came as loose sweater dresses, multicolour ‘coatigans’ and slouch sweaters with contrast colour sleeves – again the trailing yarns taking these pieces from the ordinary to the extraordinary.
Interestingly, Joseph also combined sturdy bra crop tops with sweater dressing and this was an idea we also saw on the Pringle runway. Here, fuzzy knit dresses and sweaters came topped with bralets, or as an alternative, the bralet was knitted-into the top.
Again as at Joseph, Pringle gave us finger gauge sweater dresses, and traditional sweaters deconstructed then reconstructed to take a conservative garment into more directional territory.
Meanwhile Christopher Kane made the sweater a statement piece, one with a giant gothic ‘K’ knitted into the front, while a flecked sweater or cardigan came with a single-stem rose trailing over one shoulder.
The coatigan also had a big part to play in Kane’s collection with fur-like edging channelling the season’s shearling trend.
It all makes me look forward to next season because, despite my inability to keep a sweater looking anything other than bobbly after just one wash, I do love knitwear.