It’s so boring when brands send out collections season after season that are so darned perfect you just want to scoop everything up and take it home. But that’s what Gucci has done since early last year when Alessandro Michele stepped into the spotlight and became a fashion star.
We critics like something to criticise but given that we had that aplenty at Dior’s show on Tuesday, I suppose we can forgive Michele and Gucci for being brilliant… again. There’ll be a comedown one day, I’m sure, and we’ll all wonder why we fell head over heels for so much quirky print, colour and embellishment. But for now, we’re smitten.
Ok, enough of the hyperbole, time to get back to Trendwalk’s trademark cynicism/sarcasm. This is nothing more than fashion, after all.
So what did we actually get today at the show in Westminster Abbey? Apart from the fact that we got a feeling that it’s weird putting the words ‘fashion show’ and ‘Westminster Abbey’ together, we also got so many ideas and re-interpretations of Michele’s trademark madness in the 96 different looks here.
But this is madness with method. Which means it’s wearable as well as amazing (and even the tech was wearable with special headphones in a collab with Will.i.am).
And while I’ve said it was the same old fabulous Gucci thing, it wasn’t completely. Michele moved on a little from his previous pure luxe boho to a more quirky style that’s got a cute late-60s teenage edge to it (think Mr Freedom circa 1969). It was Victorian too, and King’s Road punk and faux royal (check out the headscarves). In fact, there was an anything goes feel on the surface that was actually carefully controlled and tightly edited with a succession of looks that millionaires will want to be seen in and the high street will want to adapt.
And despite my earlier hyperbole, it actually wasn’t totally perfect. There was stuff in there that was just so-so. But there was enough brilliance to make us all forget the not-so-good pieces.
I didn’t like …well, a couple of skirts, a couple of tops, a few jackets.
But I DID like the hi-rise bleach splatter jeans, the leopard coat, the floral print handbags, the cat and dog motifs, the Chinese blue and white porcelain print dress, the sun ray pleats inset with lace, the satin tunic, the rainbow-sole flatforms, and the coloured lace footless tights.
Now I think about it, I also liked the pearl and stud-encrusted slides, the reappearance of the writhing snake motif, the multi-strap snakeskin ankle boots, the one-shoulder ruffled dress, the giant Gucci logo sweat, the fun furs, the Union Jack shoes and tops.
And I absolutely loved the plaid strapless evening dress with leaping leopard motif, the multistrap shoes, the snake motif ankle boot straps, the peacock motif fur coat, the red-white-and-blue late-60s coat and bag combo, the tiny ruffle trims on tailoring, the lace-meets-leather dress, the bib fronts… and the colours.
OK, I’ve broken my golden rule of catwalk reporting (making lists is the easy way out and description doesn’t count as real analysis). But who cares? This is Gucci and this really is fashion. Anything goes.
All pictures courtesy Gucci