It’s started! No sooner has the dust settled on the SS16 catwalk shows than high-end labels are giving us their oh-so-commercial visions for pre-fall 16. Well I’m not sure if ‘vision’ is quite right word so far as Burberry, Belstaff and Public School have given us (largely) a parade of established favourites.
These reworked pieces are paly-safe options because designers rarely go in for risk-taking with pre-collections. These are clothes they actually want to sell, rather than just getting them featured in fashion mags.
Burberry is particularly interesting given that this is the first collection where the Prorsum, Brit and London labels have been combined. And if you thought the ultra-luxury Prorsum strand would have the field all to itself, you’d be wrong. In fact, the collection feels more Brit-meets-London with the usual parade of luxe Prorsum dresses relegated to the end and looking just a little unloved compared to some strong statement outerwear.
The story so far
Parka power – The parka, or parka-influenced coat, has taken over and shows no signs of going away. Traditional woollen coats just aren’t in the running. New parkas can cosy and padded, or more rugged options in heavy cottons. Fur or shearling trims may push up the price but it’s not about luxury – these trims are all about practicality, not affectation.
MA1 takes flight – The practical khaki nylon flight/bomber jacket starts to move away from the shrunken proportions of a recent seasons to an oversized cut that feels more ‘authentic’ (as if you’d borrowed it from your ex-air force boyfriend). But if the Vetements-driven tendency to oversizing feels like too much too soon, smaller-scale cuts still work. Puffa jackets also tap into the MA1 effect with a khaki green colourway and shearling lining/trim adding an on-trend edge to a seasonal staple.
Duffle divas – The duffle coat never looked so cool. OK, it’s only been seen at Burberry so far but two pictured here show just what can be done with a simple silhouette and some toggle buttons. I love the contrast hood lining and the use of a zip as well as toggles, as well as the more subtle contrast of two different colour furs – something the high street will jump on as a great way to update its faux fur offer.